I have a dream of running all my daily commuting and errands without a private car — by using public transport, rental scooters/bikes/cars/taxies, walking and bicycling.
The reason is not just the inevitable “climate guilt” many of us have, but also being a part of creating a better city — taking less space, making less noise, spewing less particulate matter into the air and posing less danger to other people with whom we share our city. The added benefit will be light physical exercise, which I’ve found to be good for the mind too, not just the body.
Now — besides just getting up and doing it, how can I make it easier for myself to achieve this dream.
Walking is kind of .. solved. I just put my shoes on and walk. Public transport and rental services are mostly out of my control — to the level that they exist, I can use them.
What’s under my control and not solved yet is choosing the perfect bicycle for commuting, running daily errands, shopping, etc.
I like electric-assist bicycles, since they look, feel and ride like normal bikes (not to mention are legally classified as bicycles), but take a lot of the sweat and toil out of riding longer distances, into headwind, uphill and on bumpy winter roads.
I’ve owned and reviewed three electric bicycles — a BMC Alpenchallenge AMP city-bike, a Cube Stereo Hybrid 120 eMTB and an Urban Arrow Family cargo bike. Over the last few years, I’ve e-biked for about 2000km annually on a combination of these bikes.
All of these bicycles have had their downsides that have limited my use — the BMC was incredibly uncomfortable on bumpy roads in the winter, the Cube is so expensive that I can’t insure it and won’t dare to leave it locked in a public place and the cargo bike is 2.5 metres long and weighs 50kg — far too big and heavy for solo riding.
So — here’s my vision for a perfect commuter e-bike.
What does the bike have to do?
I live in Tallinn, Estonia. Bicycle infrastructure here is moderately good and slowly improving, but there’s still a lot of broken pavement, thousands of silly 10cm high curbs to bump up and down on, unpaved bike roads and shortcuts over terrain. It’s cold and snowy for nearly half the year from October to April, so I will inevitably have to drive on snow and ice.
I have a cargo bike for transporting kids, but in a few years, it’s likely that all my three kids will be self-sufficient — riding their own bikes and using public transport independently. I don’t need to lug around big things on a bicycle. We do most of our grocery shopping online and I’m mentally flexible enough to use a rental van to move big things.
So — I want a solo e-bike that can ride thousands of kilometres per year in comfort during 4 seasons .. going to work, picking up a package, doing light shopping, going to a meeting or hairdresser’s .. and that I am comfortable locking to a lamp post outside a pub in the dark evenings of November.
Here’s what I imagine this bike needs to be:
- Comfortable— it needs to eat up broken roads, curbs and bumpy icy roads. The riding position should be neutral —sporty enough to take the curbs, but not so aggressive that it makes my back hurt. It should be light enough to carry to the office bike-room or lift into the bike-holders in the train. It should not make my trousers oily or spew dirt from under the wheels on my clothes. It needs to have enough assist modes and gears to find a comfortable pedalling cadence on flat asphalt riding downhill with a tailwind in the summer and riding uphill in a headwind on snowy gravel bike path in the winter.
- Fully kitted — fenders, lights, mounting for a lock, a bell, a rear rack that can take 20-25kg of weight.
- Low maintenance — no chain-lubing, cassette cleaning, derailleur adjusting. Ideally maintainable with basic hand tools by myself.
- Cheap —I would be happy to pay quite a lot of money for my perfect bike, but chances are that an expensive fancy bike will get stolen and I can only insure a bike up to 1500EUR.
- Durable — frame that can fall over and be locked to random bike infra without breaking, wheels and engine that can take road salt in the winter, brakes and gears that can get rained on without seizing.
The perfect bike does not need to have:
- A long range — I rarely ride more than 30–40km in a day. A range of 65km is enough.
- A lot of engine torque — my BMC had 65Nm and it was enough for a reasonably heavy solo bike.
- An “app”, a screen or fancy electronics — if they exist and work, that’s fine. But I am yet to see a cheap or good e-bike app or screen.
- High end parts — no need for “aero”, no need for fancy stuff that’s expensive to replace.
- Looks — ideally a drug addict who sets out to steal a bike should not notice this bike first in the supermarket bike parking.
Here’s what I imagine
A cross-country mountain bike frame geometry — upright enough to navigate moderately tricky terrain, but sporty enough to pedal medium distances efficiently.
Aluminium everything — frame, wheels, cranks — carbon is too fragile and expensive, steel is sexy, but probably will rust in the winter salt.
Biggest “normal” wheels available — 29'’ wheels with fat 2.4–2.6'’ tyres with “commuter-oriented” tread pattern and puncture protection. No tubeless, as it’s a faff to set up and needs regular maintenance.
Internal gear hub and belt drive. Ideally at least 8–9 gears. Shimano Nexus is fine, 11-speed Shimano Alfine would be plenty. Does not have to switch gears under load. Enviolo stepless is an option, but probably too low efficiency (85% efficient compared to 95% for best internal hubs)
Oil actuated disk brakes with one finger levers for comfort and safety. The brake calipers can be low end two-piston onesand the bike can have small 160–180mm brake rotors.
A (cheap) air suspension fork with 100–120mm of travel. This is controversial, since it adds to the cost and maintenance needs, but Tallinn’s bike infra is not ready for a rigid bike.
A moderately sporty commuter saddle with a good saddle post suspension. This is also controversial, since good saddle suspension posts can cost 250 EUR extra. It’s worth it, since the heavy e-bike frame will be uncomfortable beating against my bum without additional suspension. No dropper post.
Factory mounted OEM fenders, rack, lights.
Sealed bearings everywhere — wheels, bottom bracket, headset. Ideally spokes and spoke-nipples made from non-corroding metals (no steel). Ideally at least partially integrated cables for durability.
Mid-drive motor from a known brand that has spare parts and support— Bosch, Shimano, Bafang, Yamaha. The motor itself can be low-end version and “previous generation”. Does not need to have screens or “smart systems”. Ideally assist is controllable with buttons on the bike, not from a phone app.
At least 400Wh battery that can be removed from the bike for easy charging and replacement.
Ideally weighing sub-20kg for being able to lift and carry it reasonably easily.
Ideally costing ca 2000EUR, so that my 1500EUR maximum insurance amount covers most of the value.
Have I reinvented the wheel?
This seems like a combo between a city-bike and a low-end hardtail cross country MTB with an electric drive slapped onto it. Couldn’t I just go out and buy it?
For 2000EUR, no.
For about 4000 EUR, there is a whole class of electric mountain bikes called “SUV-s” that look to the untrained eye like my ideal bike (e.g. Canyon Pathlite:ON). The trouble with the “SUV”-s is not just the insane price, but they tend to weigh more than 25kg, have surprisingly poor suspension (for example 60mm travel coil spring) and a very upright riding position making it harder to take the curbs.
For ca 2000EUR, you can get a new hardtail e-MTB with 29'’ wheels and fat tyres that is kitted with fenders and lights, e.g. Cube Touring Hybrid, but with a weak drivetrain, bad suspension and usually weighing more than 25kg as well.
So .. I guess I’ll need to build it myself..
